8 EYE DERBY BOOT
The Solovair Classic Collection 8 Eye Derby boot is an iconic style steeped in history.
Manufactured on our 409 last and features classic soft suspension soles, along with traditional Goodyear welted construction.
CUTTING THE PATTERN
Our 8 Eye Derby boot is made up of seven pieces of leather. The two quarters are “whipped” together before the shell binding is attached using a standard stitch. An additional row is added underneath the binding.
The back panel and the renowned Solovair pull tag is then attached with two rows of traditional stitching.
The vamp & tongue once connected are then “faced up” These are two small pieces of leather that attach the tongue & vamp to the side panels of the boot. 16 eyelets are then inserted into both the quarters & facing.
The Puritan stitch (triple stitch) is then added to ensure longevity.
THE “ROUGH STUFF”
Moving from the Closing room to the Making room. Using a specialist machine the rib is attached to the insole. The leather pieces which have now become the “upper” are stretched and moulded over a last and the boot starts to take shape. The insole is then attached to the “upper” with the help of the “rib”.
THE WELT & SHANK
The pre-stitched welt strip with the unmistakeable Solovair grey stitch is then attached to the “upper” using a chain stitch, before being flattened on the underside. The boot is then turned upside down and a felt mid-sole and beechwood shank is inserted. Both of which support the insole, provide cushioning and insulation.
THE MAIN EVENT
The outsole is now fused to the flattened welt using a heat sealing machine. A hot blade (approximately 700°C) is rotated between the two components. This is done by eye and is a real art. With the boot structure complete, the excess from the sole is trimmed off and the last removed.
THE FINISHING TOUCHES
Round to the “Shoe Room” a stamped heel sock is attached inside using a strong adhesive and the boot is given a good clean and polish. A lace is added to each boot and each pair is boxed and labelled ready for our warehouse team.
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